Friday, January 14, 2011

frogcakes

Hot and dry today. A long walk at mid-day left me badly in need of a shave ice. I found some. It was just like a big cup of pina-colada flavoured snow. Delicious. I got to thinking about dead frogs. See a lot of them on the roads here. Abstract, crispy, flat skins of frogs in dark stains of ...ex-frog flesh? It's an odd sight. Reminds me of all the snake-pancakes I've seen in summertimes back home. Then I wondered if frogs shed their skins like snakes. Unlikely but maybe not impossible, I thought. I never paid much attention in Biology - just enough to know that nature is full of surprises. So I did some youtube research, and yes, frogs do shed their skin. But they don't leave it behind on the road. They eat it! Check out this charming frog sloughing off and gulping it down. Listen closely - hear that music in the background?
It's The Bossa Nova Slough, baby.



I worked hard and fast this morning so I could finish early and go find some fun. I rented a scooter. (My first time driving one of those things.) After a few dozen laps around the parking lot, I scooted off, and kept scooting til I came to a beach. Then I swam and I swam til the sun went down.

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Thursday, January 13, 2011

after rain







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Abracadabra

My God what a storm! I can't remember ever experiencing so much thunder, lightning and torrential rain. It started yesterday afternoon, and is still going strong this morning. I don't think I'll be going anywhere today, except maybe for a swim in the backyard with my boogie board. Heh heh. But I suspect that all the roads around me will be flooded... fine, since I have plenty to eat and drink and a mountain of books to read, writing to do, a keyboard to play. Tomorrow and the rest of the weekend is going to be sunny. Coastal BC, take a lesson. Rain then sun then rain then sun...
Last night I dreamed (in between claps of thunder) that I was about to play a show for an audience of thousands. All kinds of people were tossing me around, designing costumes for me, doing insane things with my hair, showing me the pyro-technics. It was fun. I had a nagging concern, the whole time though, as I had never rehearsed with the band and hadn't even practiced for many weeks. I knew I was going to forget half the music onstage. Which I did... but that was okay, because we put on such a spectacu-diculous show, that I was able to make the audience think that my false-starts and falters were a dream. Abracadabra.
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Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Widgeoo-widgeoo-widgeoo-widgeoo!

Trying to identify more bird sounds. Why is it so hard to find a good resource for this on the net? Couldn't track down the funny woofy coo-coo noise I keep hearing. But I did find this little video with David Attenborough (whom we all do love), talking about birds with the loudest calls on the earth. My personal favourite is the long glissando birdcall. Listen to it here !

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it was in case I forget how to use my voice

25 degrees and drenching humidity. I feel a bit weird today, body aware of the storm brewing. Noticing small things: ants the size of poppy seeds, a gecko on the wall, the aftertaste of papaya rind, accidentally eaten. The creeping effect of suntans, Dostoyevski's use of the word 'depravity', the absence of helmets on scooter-riders, the withdrawing droop of hibiscus petals, the piles of white coral that look like bones.
I may break down and buy an electric kettle. The tea-drinker in me is growing fractious.
My skin feels fantastic. It nearly crawled right off my body during my first few days here... but now it's adjusted and swooning. My hair is becoming rather mane-like. Gnarly and sea-blasted, colour fading - no combs, no brushes, no shampoo. Better this way. I eat a papaya every morning with plain yogurt and it's better than Swedish pancakes. I've a new addiction for San Pellegrino. The weather always demands bubbly water.
Went out for a walk. It was tinged with a dream-like quality. Someone beeped at me, then doubled back, followed me into a parking lot, to ask if I needed a ride. I didn't. The wind came up, grew fierce when I reached the beach. The water was the colour of slate and it was rough. I leaned forward into the wind and hollered to myself and the sky as I walked, hollered at the sand flying into my face, hollered at the raucous thrashing of palms. For half an hour I was a demon and it felt real good. Then I went to the grocery store and bought rice cakes. Ha. The clerk asked me, "What does this taste like? Is it good?" about the San Pell. "Sweet, right?"
Now I'm going to write more letters - I have been procrastinating about this last batch. Having trouble with my opening line to Thom York. But nevermind, it will come. It's my day off, but I think work is called for after such gluttony of pleasures.

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Tuesday, January 11, 2011

The Water

I found this swimming hole today on my 'lunch break'. I went in snorkeling, without the snorkel.
Even in the shallowest areas, there were fantastic fish - silvery and iridescent, striped and mottled - flitting over the coral. Bright red sea urchins, and purple ones, black ones. That's as far as I can get with identification. A guy snorkeling near me kept asking about turtles. He only wanted to see a turtle. Good grief! With an attitude like that, he's got no hope of finding one. But oh, that water, oh that water... like being back in the womb. Yet free. It's such an amazing thing to float above that mysterious world, bob around in the waves, dive down, pop back up again. The water is around 20 degrees. Which, oddly enough, feels cool when you first jump in, but immediately becomes perfect.


It was so hot and sunny on the South-East part of the island, I couldn't resist going over to Big Beach too. I ran my lunch break into overtime. There were humpback whales breaching and spouting off in the distance. I was happy - no, jubilant - in the water again and felt compelled to dance a mock-ballet in the waves for quite some time. Nobody knows me here. It's great.



My mouth is hurting real bad right now - too much pineapple today. I bought a couple from a road-side fruit stand, where the lady skinned and cut them up for me, insisting that I try them both before I take them. They were so sweet and tender you could swear there was no acid in them. She wanted to charge me $10 each. I just laughed, and then we haggled happily until the price was reasonable. A couple tourists came up and started inspecting the fruit.

American lady: Are your papayas genetically modified? Do you use GMO?
Hawaiian fruit-lady: What?
American lady: GMO. Do you know what that is? Genetically-modified?
Hawaiian fruit-lady: What do you mean?
American lady: Ge-ne-ti-cally Mo-di-fied!
Hawaiian fruit lady: I don't know what you're talking about. My fruit is organic.
American lady: It's organic?
Hawaiian fruit-lady: Yes organic, of course organic!

Bloody tourists. I hope she got the full ten bucks per fruit out of them.


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Monday, January 10, 2011

Flashflood warnings and a pretty voice

A very cloudy day to follow yesterday's heat. It's still so odd to be inside, and see grey skies, and to open the door and step into lovely warm air. I went walking on the beach; it was raining lightly and I thought it would be cooler. But no, I had to take off my shoes and walk in the surf, and then I just had to walk right into the water and sit down because it was so warm.
Made my first bird identification today! There is this sweet bird call I'm always hearing that just sounds so... tropical. Such a beautiful sound. I discovered that it's the little Zebra dove! A small, plain bird with a wonderful voice. You can hear it sing 2 different songs here: Zebra dove
This evening: a storm. The sky grew dark and the winds came up strong. I was driving, and noticed the palm trees bending over and I thought: yikes - hurricanes! Warm air, howling wind, driving rain... just like in the movies. Well, maybe not, and halleluja. But it was cool to be in a short but spirited tropical storm. Back at my place, the rain was dripping through the air conditioner, there was thunder and lightning and raging rain. Flashflood warnings were issued on the radio for the next couple of days. Please do not let me be washed out to sea, oh loving Universe. I really would like to go horseback riding this weekend.

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Sunday, January 9, 2011

Ecuador, Utah, The Moon

Day 6 - back to the West & North coasts. I was really excited to revisit these strange and dramatic cliffs. The picture above is taken from a rocky ledge, looking straight down at the surf. The waves roaring in. It was truly something to behold.



I scrambled down through a maze of dried mud and volcanic rock and came into what I could only describe as a moonscape. Huge fields of craggy, pock-marked craters and boulders standing over the sea. Gray and holey as Swiss cheese. It was very, very strange and utterly awesome. Deadly quiet except for whistling wind and crashing waves.


The diversity of colour and texture and natural design on this island is almost obscene. Rich red canyon-like walls, valleys engorged with green.




I'll have to start blogging in the morning. When I get to it at the end of the day, I'm so worn out from all that exertion in the sun that I have no energy for writing. But there's a lot that I want to say. About being here, and not being there, about being here alone. About gratitude and disbelief, contentment and connectedness. About waking up, remembering where I am, and jumping out of bed like a little kid. I miss my big red cedars and ferns and icy lakes, but I just feel good in this climate. My body feels more alive and my mind more a part of my body. I don't know when or if this will change, but I am not lonely and I am not wishing I had a companion. (Even when I'm on a beach surrounded by families and couples.) It is amazing to feel insulated, in a way, from depression. I've always needed so much time alone but had a fear of being always alone, a fear that is much quieter now. 2 months will pass in the blink of an eye.

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Saturday, January 8, 2011

and the sun goes down



And the colours continued to deepen until the sky was nothing but black.


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Day 6 - the lava fields

Today - mini adventure #1: La Perouse Bay -the barren, jagged lava flows on the South East tip of Maui. Archaeological remains of an early Hawaiian village, beaches of black lava rock and white coral... really breathtaking. Such a hot day, right under the slopes of the volcano.
Spent the rest of the afternoon on my favourite beach, napping and playing in the waves.





Look what I found. How nice.

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Friday, January 7, 2011

Day 5

Dr. Seuss trees!

Seaweed jewels.

Jungle fowl.

Bougainvillea clouds.

Who are you?

I don't know what this is. A kind of urchin? Barnacle? Anyone know?

A cloudy, calm, sweet day. Water is just slightly cooler than the air.

Coconut husk in the seaweed.

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Who knew you could make tea in a coffee-maker? You can. I don't have a kettle here, and I need my tea as much as my coffee. The teabag goes in the coffee filter and bingo-presto. The result is strange, hot, but not unpleasant. It goes very well with dead-ant-speckled frozen cereal. (Those teensy tropical ants found the box and had a hay-day, which ended when I put them in the freezer. Is that gross? Honestly, you can't even see them mixed in with the bran flakes. It's one of the joys of tropical living: occasional accidental bug consumption!) Washed down with some fresh melt-in-the-mouth pineapple, you've got all your food groups covered.
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I just have to say: good grief! This is the life! Shibbity shabbity hola hola blam blam!
I'm at work at my laptop, drinking local Kona coffee, feet up, balcony doors wide open, the outside temperature the same as the inside temperature, rich moist flower-scented air all around me, peace and quiet and privacy and good work to do. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Lilikoi-licious




It was a workday, so I didn't go far from home. It rained this morning for quite a while - such a beautiful warm rain. This is a 'cold front' ... ha ha. Tomorrow it returns to sun through the weekend. I've decided to keep my rental car a few more days because I found a hiking book and am now super excited about a whole bunch of trails on the other side of island that I MUST hike. Whoo-hoo! Also, I ate a fruit I've never heard of - Lilikoi. Potent!

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Wednesday, January 5, 2011

How?

No pictures today. Had a little setback with my camera... but I'll be back in photo action tomorrow.
Oh God, people, I hope and pray that I will do something with my life to make me worthy of the kind of day I just had.
I thought I knew Maui, but I was wrong. I discovered an entire stretch of coastline that I'd never seen, and it has completely stolen my heart. I might have to go there every day. Might have to try living there. (Might have to somehow save the unfathomable amount of money it would take to own a home there...)
But starting at the beginning of my day: Got up with the sun at 7:30. Went out walking - a perfect morning, already 22 degrees or so by 8am. Birdsong absolutely raucous, hibiscus opening reluctantly. Everywhere, swathes of plumeria and bougainvillea, countless varieties of palms, trees of papaya, banana, tangerine and mango, golden sand, red earth, turquoise water, crashing surf, views of rugged mountains and the other islands. Wild roosters, egrets, and mynas wandering about like proper citizens. I found a route to the most perfect swimming beach, and went there a bit later with my snorkel gear. The water was the temperature of bliss, the sand below soft and fine, the reefs alive with amazing things. The beach was full of families and I was happy to be amongst them - such an atmosphere of pleasure and joy. A clear sky, hot sun, cool breeze, no bugs.
Later - took a long drive from Kahului to Kapalua, behind the West mountains, along the coastline... fell into deep love. Man oh man - forget the drive to Hana - at least for me. This road passes through a huge variety of ecosystems, from bone-dry ranchlands to bursting valleys. The road is narrow, winding, often has no shoulder, and sits high above the sea. The mountains cut away down to the sea in the most dramatic slopes and outcroppings of rock. (Somehow it reminded me of Scotland or Ireland, in spite of all the obvious differences.) The landscape of chiseled lava ranges in colour from pale gray to ochre to dark orange, brick red, brown and black. Sometimes it's covered in soft grasses and cactus-like palms, other times dense rainforest life, or bizarre cypress-like pines. The views are staggering - I just lost my head. Ocean forever and ever, in something like a 250 degree panorama... the sun setting purple behind Molokai, humpback whales spouting off the coast. I just wish everyone was here to see it. I promise, when I become a rancher on this coast, to have ample guest rooms.
xx

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Palms up

It's such a different kind of green here. It was hard to leave Vancouver after that stretch of beautiful shimmery weather. But I hear it's none too pretty there today. Sorry about that...




Monday, December 27, 2010

dogma flippers

Had my last morning with my brother, his wife and baby. The usual nearly broken heart, saying goodbye after 3 short days of basking in Baby's total radiance. 3 sweet days.
Had lunch in town with friends, then subjected myself to an intense but short and focused shopping trip: flippers, snorkel, mask, waterproof diving pouch for keys and wallet, a sunshirt so I don't scorch my back while snorkeling, sandals, a tiny umbrella, a collection of Steinbeck short novels, some Hemingway, a bag of apples and oranges. I got in and out quickly, but even so... it's a bit of a horror show out there. Humans at their greediest, rudest, most impatient. Boxing week is just depressing beyond belief. I'm not depressed, hurray, thank God, but still very aware of the pitiful hollowness that balloons after the big anticlimax of Christmas Day. So many people looking over-sated, apathetic, disappointed... am I just projecting this? I sat waiting for the bus, and a homeless man came up to me and asked, after a lengthy preamble, if I'd give him some money. I offered him my apples and oranges, and he turned them down politely and moved on. I watched as every other person shook their heads at him coldly before he could even start his spiel; a man behind me cracked an ignorant joke. Mm, the radiant spirit of Christmas. I walk by many beggars on the street, and do nothing to help - it feels awful and I hate it. But if I am approached by anyone who has something to say, I will listen. Can't we at least afford each other that much respect? How quickly people must lose their faith in mankind, when they are treated like criminals, like dogs, ignored and waved away. There's a girl who comes by that bus stop often. She's homeless, smells and looks terrible, has rotten teeth, sores all over her face, glassy eyes... I gave her some money once, so she always tries me for a handout. She looks disappointed if I say no, but will sit and talk to me for a while, and I just would like to take her home, bathe and feed her, give her a soft bed and clean clothes, take her to the dentist and the doctor, give her a job, say, with horses, surround her with kind people, give her a bloody chance. I don't follow any religion and have mixed feelings about any kind of dogma, but I really think that we are painfully lacking in spirituality, even basic ethical code. Any kind of belief in a power 'greater than oneself' tends to make people feel more connected to each other, maybe even be more concerned for each other's welfare. The absence of it makes these de-religionized holidays so bizarrely satirical, at least in these bull-fighting arenas of super-sale-blowouts and frantic gift exchanges...

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Thursday, December 23, 2010

hell yes

...just discovered that Kaki King is playing in Vancouver on March 12. Right after I get home. This is stupidly awesome! God, I wonder if she'll get my letter before then.

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Sunday, December 19, 2010

They say everything is Blues

Something that is always interesting, as an artist, is how people try to compare your work to someone else's. Everyone does this - I do this - it's just natural to want to relate somehow, through something you already know. Sometimes the comparisons make me happy; most often they don't make any sense to me. Sometimes they infuriate me. Musicians I've never heard of, or I've never listened to, or worse of all, musicians I can't stand. Lots of singer songwriters play the piano. But with almost all of them, and I say this factually, it's arpeggiated simple chords, plunky triads on the quarter, 8th notes on the last beat and a half - sometimes syncopated, the occasional 'dramatic' 7th added in, major for happy and minor for sad, repetitive and predictable. Sitting in doctor's waiting rooms, standing in line at the grocery store, there it is, over and over and over and over again. I IV I IV I IV ad nauseum, and then a I VI II V I in the chorus. My GOD!
So look, I'm just gonna say it. I am not a Tori Amos fan. Never have been. Never could get through an album. (No disrespect.) Sarah McLachlan, not a fan anymore. "Fumbling towards Ecstacy" was a masterpiece and I'll never stop loving it, but most everything after that doesn't do it for me. But people compare me to those 2 women all the time. I'm hoping that's just because it's their only point of reference. Because honestly, there ain't NOTHING in my music that resembles what they do. People say, 'No, I definitely hear some Tori Amos in your music.' No man, no you don't. There is no Tori Amos in my music, because I have never listened to Tori Amos, have never liked Tori Amos, would not ever have been influenced by Tori Bloody Amos. Dig?
All right, rant over.
I have 4 major female songwriting heros: Kaki King, PJ Harvey, Joanna Newsom, and Bjork.
Kaki King: A kind of demon guitarist and songwriter, the antithesis of primping diva. She writes the most beautiful, complex, moving music. Not pretty - but really beautiful in the larger sense - to the senses and all the other faculties that have no name. I have spent so many hours walking around this island with her music in my ears. First time I heard her, I remember being hit by a kind of stunned dumbness. Cause there just ain't nobody to compare her to. Watch this: Kaki King and more Kaki King
PJ Harvey: a through-and-through authentic irreverent un-self-conscious performer. She doesn't write music to please - it makes me happy to listen to her music even when I don't like it, because it's just so her own. She delivers everything with total, raw conviction. She's a little scary too. I like women that are scary. PJ Harvey - rid of me
PJ Harvey - the piano
Joanna Newsom: this woman is no slouch. Epic, dream-like songs, bizarre and floridly ballsy. Brilliant poetry. Her voice is strange and captivating, and her 1st 2 albums gave me hundreds of hours of totally enraptured listening. I'm not in love with her latest album, but I'm okay with not always enjoying or getting what I want from artists. She deserves her freedom- and what the hell do I know? But just listen to this: Joanna Newsom. So excited to see what she'll do next.
Bjork: it's obvious. She's a genre of music unto herself. She's Queen of some unnamed country. I actually cannot listen to her very much anymore, because most of her songs are time capsules that take me back to really heavy potent times in my teenage years, when I listened to her constantly. The instrumentation, her voice, ah God - it was all a revolution. Bjork
And an honourable mention goes to...
Fiona Apple: where did she go? I suspect/worry/have this feeling that she hasn't been well. Her album "When the Pawn" was amazing, but since then I feel she's been the victim of overzealous producers. The arrangements are ridiculous, just not good. The piano lost its role, drowned out by fluttery flutes, too much percussion etc. I hope she finds herself again - she can be such a powerful performer. This was a good year for Fiona: Fiona Apple

Other musicians that I am owe a lot of influence to: Brad Mehldau, Neko Case, Jeff Buckley, Keith Jarrett, Tom Waits, Nina Simone, Leonard Cohen, Esbjorn Svensson, Tin Hat, Billy Holiday, Nick Drake, Edith Piaf, Siouxsie Sioux, Alice Babs, Bad Plus, Billy Strayhorn, Andrew Bird, Radiohead, Astor Piazzolla, Avishai Cohen, Pinback, Death Cab, Stravinsky, Ravel, Part, Grieg, Faure, Debussy, Schumann, Whitacre, Scriabin, Bach, Rachmaninoff, Villa-Lobos, Barber, Mozart, Reich, Copland, Glass, Brahms.
Feeling somewhat better today. It's been nice to have time/the excuse just to lie in bed and watch youtube videos of my favourite musicians - get all stoked up with ideas and inspiration. By the way, today is Monday, not Sunday as this post says. Which means I only have 2 days of work left before holidays, and then my trip. Crazy. I have a couple of musical goals for my time away. One is to re-learn my pieces on a small, portable, non-weighted-keys keyboard (surprisingly, no small task), and to play standing up. This'll be weird when I've had 25 years of sitting at a piano. I also want to play at least one gig while I'm there, with said keyboard, in said position, but it's not manditory. My other goal of course is to write more music. Some people have been saying that my lyrics are very very dark and that they'd like to hear me write a happy song. Well, I've tried. But fuck that. Writing 'dark' songs makes me happy, so there. Everyone loves darkness - it's at least half of what we are.

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Saturday, December 18, 2010

Buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo.
Have you heard this? It's actually a legitimate sentence in English. 3 different uses of the word: Buffalo (city), buffalo (the animal) and buffalo (the verb= bully). If you add in the unnecessary articles, it suddenly makes sense:
The Buffalo buffalo (that other) Buffalo buffalo bully, (themselves) bully Buffalo buffalo.
Whoever thought of this is brilliant. I love this kind of stuff. Nerding out!
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You must have heard of this blog, '1000 awesome things.' I just found it today and I like it. Somebody discovered how good it feels to make gratitude lists. I do that sometimes when I'm in a dark hole and it does help. There's an infinite supply of good stuff in life, and the more you notice, the more there seems to be. Here are 10 awesome things I like today, and they're not very exciting but yes, super awesome:
1. Apple lime juice
2. Tylenol
3. Hot toddies & whiskey with an ice cube
4. Having someone around to fetch you things
5. Crazy-ass dreams that leave you with weird but interesting feelings for the people in them
6. Kids' cereal
7. The soft and wet sound of rain
8. A phone that doesn't ring
9. The big couch
10. This guy: maru the stunt cat
Nrrr, nrr, nrr nrr nrrrr, Into the Depth !!!!

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The waves just knocked me over

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Warming up to it

I'm afraid I just can't help myself. I'm crazed with anticipation. My beloved BC coastal wilderness, I will miss you. I will miss those misty moist mossy lungs of the Earth. I almost can't believe anything else exists right now. But I am hungry, hungry, hungry for sunshine - I hope I'm not being a traitor to my native land. These pictures are from my first, solo trip to Maui. I just had to cry when I arrived there, because it is so impossibly beautiful - the air just wraps you up in sweet rich life.

Just imagine the way this sand feels underfoot. You can't. It's too soft for words. It's so fine it actually becomes part of your skin. You almost can't wash it off.

Look at these trees! Just look at these amazing peg-leg roots! Like some kind of crazy cartoon.

One of the north-shore beaches at dusk - 2 blocks away from the Monastery I stayed at.

Sugar cane fields line the roads in Paia. Everything has this golden hue - both from the sun and from the red-brown soil that works its way over every surface.

The coastline along the Road to Hana. Thick, dense jungle. Sheer cliffs dropping down to the sea.

Upcountry, heading up the slopes toward the volcano. Ranch lands, views of the other islands in the distance. Goat farms, lavender fields, hillsides covered in tufts of something that looked like heather, like some tropical version of the Scottish highlands.

Black sand beach - so hot!

The Stupa at the Tibetan monastery where I stayed, lit up in celebration of Buddha's birthday. Which is different all over the world. (It's the full moon day of the sixth month of the Buddhist lunar calendar, which would be the fourth month of the Chinese calendar, except in years in which there's an extra full moon, and then Buddha's birthday falls in the seventh month, except where it starts a week earlier. In Tibet it's usually a month later; in Japan, Buddha's Birthday always is April 8.... ?!)

The western mountains, on the hot, dry side of the island. Pineapple and mango plantations line the roads.

Pewter light.


A little bit scared. Though it was the one and only shark sign I saw on the island.

Front of the little monastery. There were cats, and bunches of apple bananas hanging outside the doors. Kind, kind people. And Huge harmless spiders. I'll go visit when I'm there.

When I'm there... When I'm there... When I'm there...

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